How is Venice in the autumn?
And how was autumn in Venice 2020? It was great and special. Even the given conditions. Let´s have a look at it.
There is always a question hanging in the air for travellers – What is the best month to go to Venice? There are months, which I usually recommend not too much, and then there are months, that I try to inspire people to visit Venice in. Of course, summer has a pro-side of being romantic, taken by the slow pace of Italy, but I find it a bit not comfortable for exploration and slow hanging out. I tis time of the year, that I prefer jumping to the sea and staying close to nature and beach, which would be in Italy far down south from Venice.
Autumn in Venice is wonderful. It has fewer crowds, fewer tourist groups. Locals are hanging outside, the air is fresher and nature has wonderful colours. The temperatures are neat to walk around, without boiling yourself or having the need to drink gallons of water every 10 minutes.
For everyone, who likes to feel „like at home“ and to enjoy Venice at his own pace, autumn is perfect.
Yet, it is to remember, that autumn in Europe is the „twisty“ time of the year, bringing rains, winds. In Venice, autumn is often connected to Acqua Alta – high water phenomenon, but there is nothing to worry about if you have all important information. Here they come for you!
How many days in Venice is enough?
Autumn in Venice is so calm, that it inspires to hang around for more times than usual 1 / 2 days stop that tourists usually choose. Rather than sacrificing yourself to travel long distances from Venice and having it only as „must-do“, autumn offers a perfect time. Mind, that I love autumn generally, and I also find if some moodiness and ray sky appears. I think it is highly inspiring time when I remind myself to come back to books, stories, myths, and everything connected to nature.
If you wish to Venice in autumn, perfect! You are in the awesome region of Italy ( well... there is not a region that is not awesome...) Veneto offers choices from mountains to sea, from city vibes to beach strolls. High-end shopping to tasting antique flavours of Veneto cuisine.
I want to highlight for you towns close to Venice such as Chioggia( which is such as Venice with cars and with wonderful fish-based plates), Dolo ( awesome calm stroll around water mill, again excellent platters and wine. You can head also to Treviso, place where was according to Treviso born dessert tiramisu. University town of Padova with a priceless Scrovegni Chapel from the 14th century with artworks of Giotto is a place to see as well. Padova is another city in Veneto, that is extremely easy to reach – whether by car or train.
Treviso is full of nice cafes, boutiques, or whatever Italian you will imagine. Remember, Treviso people are very fancy, they are dressed up, so if you want to be lost in the crowd, get yourself into nice leather shoes or sneakers, smart casual outfits and or nice small backpack or a comfy handbag.
Treviso is stone- thrown from hills of Valdobbiadene – home of Prosecco, so you will find plenty of occasions to enjoy homey- finger foods in Treviso accompanied with Treviso.
Treviso is easy to reach from Venezia / Venezia Mestre by Train, also not hard to par, if you are arriving with a car.
Therefore, if you will have around week in Venice, you will be able to enjoy it so much and also you will be able experience in full towns of Veneto, to have a full 360 Venice and Veneto region experience. Like this, slow exploration of Venice´s historical centre is perfectly doable, its other islands in Lagoon such as Lido, Murano, Burano or Torcello and the mentioned towns will feel like your home.
What to wear in autumn in Venice?
Ladies in autumn in Venice wear nice comfy leather loafers, sneakers or small boots. Everyone is also ready to switch to rubber boots, if necessary. In Venice there is a lot of walking, naturally, so outfit and footwear should reflect this.
An elegant coat or cute fluffy fur or „fake“ fur waistcoats with extravagant belts are popular. Leather jackets are commonly popular, and strangely, young university student- ladies prefer rather masculine outfits. Jeans, skinny jeans and all kinds of chino trousers are worn. Sweaters in 100 types are also popular, you will find it pretty cozy with the autumn breezes and morning chill.
Layers, waterproof jackets are welcomed. Yet, not too sporty. Shiny „bike“ outfits are not too popular and seen here. If yes, these are people who get to be overcharged for a coffee or bottled water.....
Guys tend to be dressed pretty classically, coats, smart – elegant will work. Good loafers or small leather boots or shoes will be fine. Decent and not too screaming running shoes are often nicely combined with smart- casual outfits.
The ambience of Venice in the street appears „noble“, so something comfortable and chic is generally a thing to wear.
Venetians are often dressed in black or dark tones – it is practical if you are jumping from train or bus or crowded Vaporetto. In autumn, tones of browns, orange, greens, blue will not be too extravagant. This is the time, though, when we quite say bye-bye to bright tones and whites( unless you are an inhabitant of one of noble Venice´s palaces.
Weather in the autumn Venice
Venice is normally humid, so this may be also considered. While I would normally wear a nice fancy „synthetic“ pullover and chic boots, and a leather jacket in Salzburg or Vienna, in Venice I am usually choosing something really comfortable, full of cotton and colour- wise tone in tone, with shoes I can imagine to stand and walk on all day long.
Don´t forget to check the weather forecast, and basically in autumn, to be ready for everything. This is why I suggest a tone in tone solution. You can pack various layers in a similar colour tone, not a complete outfit. You can never know what is Venice preparing for you.
For example, usually, November is pretty awful, rainy, grey and depressive in Venice, 2020 had a nice November, with a couple of rains and strong Acqua Alta. We can be inspired by what is„normal“ but it will always depend on the mood of the weather.
What is there to do in autumn in Venice?
Venice in autumn has a few events and some flavours, that it is typical for. If you don´t want to be focused on events – anyway they will not fill the whole day, you can simply enjoy the mood of Venice in this time.
I like to say, that Venice in autumn is very good for art and book lovers. I am convinced, that „sadness“ of autumn has something to remind us that not everything lasts forever, so we can be a bit sad, to think about people that we lost, but also to pamper ourselves with the things we like.
In the autumn, Veneto is having a harvest time. Time to think about mushrooms, chestnuts, nuts.
Usually, I like to switch also my music playlists to more piano songs, Regina Spektor. Our ancestor would take autumn as a preparation for winter – switching wardrobe, conserving the last fresh vegetables.
The end of autumn and a mark to winter is in Venice more of „spiritual“ celebration. It is called Festa Della Salute.
While I am not usually promoting too much of religious matters, this year The Festa Della Salute had very symbolic and powerful meaning. I will tell you more about this special day.
September in Venice
Regata Storica - Historical Regatta 2020
Historical Regatta takes its place in the first week of September, few of its events are still in August. Normally, this is still a time of nice weather, as it is the exterior event, happening right on Canal Grande.
It is a race of traditional wooden boats and parade of historical costumed figures from the chapters of the history of La Serenissima. You can see Doge, his wife, noble families represented and the court of Doge.
There is also a boat- race competitions segment, that you can watch all around Canal Grande, Salute, Palazzo Ducale, Punta Della Dogana.
It is a time to celebrate the relationship of the story of Venice, water, hugging Venice and gondoliers and their craft. There are a few categories of racers. You can cheer up racing children, women and men category.
You can always check a calendar of Regata Storica´s events, though the main is the race that happens on the first Sunday of September. How to attend it? See the route, where the boats will be passing by and get your space to observe the race. The seats are a simply catching your spot in the gaps around Canal Grande or Salute, Punta Della Dogana.
I advise you to arrive at the spot quite a time before the race starts, having water and some small energy snack with you. This year, I was also happy to be with good sunglasses and a hat, as the sun was pretty strong. Then, prepare hand to cheer racers and whistling or any other sport- connected supportive sounds.
One of the trusty sources of info about Regata Storica is found here, on the official website of Venice´s tourism.
Let´s say, we are in the mid of September.
Sun can still occur, and if there is no rain or legendary Venetian fog, we count ourselves 2x happy. In September, you can still enjoy a light layer of clothes, fancy leather shoes, stylish sunglasses or hats combined with scarves. Umbrella in a bag and viewing of weather forecast is a normal thing. Mornings are a bit chilly, but the land is still warm from the summer heats.
Crowds are getting smaller, the atmosphere is perfect.
If you search for local events to attend, here are some to know:
Venice Glass Week, Regata Storica.
Venice Glass Week is literally a week of events celebrating Venice´s glass production. Its history and contemporary evolution. You can catch events in Murano – the island of glass production and some parts and bits in the historical centre of Venice. I have not enjoyed any Glass Week´s reserved events, but I enjoyed gazing to glass items production, that was on display live on a „floating furnace“ at Ponte dell Accademia.
I appreciate on this event, that it tries to bring the craft „outside“, to spread a word about its interesting realities and to become a part of the pop culture – as to expose it freely on Canal Grande, where everyone can see it. marketing strategy, and also it is creating a cultural part of Venice.
You can book your entrance ticket if you are a glass freak or to hang around and to see related events and exhibitions.
I believe, Venice Glass Week is becoming more „Venice and Venetians connected“ than the famous Biennale of Cinema. For example, there is a marathon organized by Venice Glass Week through Murano. „Normal“ people can feel engaged. And the event is celebrating the history of the glass production, but it is also actively building its future fans and maybe glassworks customers.
In the case of Bienalle di Cinema, I would enhance more events for Venetians, to give them something back, to connect to the location. How about street screenings all around laguna, from Lido di Jesolo, Caorle, through Mestre, Chioggia? I bet people would be happy to sit outside on the street or their balconies and to watch old movies, that were given price on Biennale.
For professionals, maybe more exhibitions related to Biennale di Cinema? How about exhibitions of old movie costumes or their photographs, versions? Talking about professions related to movie making? Masterclasses with directors, art directors, producers? While I love that Lady Gaga visits Venice and supports her movie, I believe the historical even, that created a culture of the prices of movies can interact with its location, and wide audience and professionals and visitors all around. We cannot always live from the „gifts“ of the past. And the name of Biennale di Cinema is the gift of the past.
October in Venice
October is the month when occasional Acqua Alta can appear. Don´t be stressed about that. The tide levels should be checked on apps or weather predictions. Acqua Alta is a phenomenon, that is a genuine part of Venice. Venetians live in symbiosis with water.
Yet, if you will experience emergency sirens sounds when water is high more than 100 cm above sea level, it is normal to feel a bit frightened ( as the sound is pretty serious and reminds of some war sirens...). The water level in Venice is culminating „up and down“ from the sea level every 6 hours. There are moments when you can see as if the water „dried out“ in Venetian canals.
Acqua Alta phenomenon
The water of Venetian lagoon is like a cup of water from the Adriatic sea and rivers up from Venice. If there are strong rains in mountains, the river is naturally stronger, brings to Venice more volume of water. If that is connected with the moon power, and wind or rain in the sea, this can cause high Acqua Alta. Though, in October, usually, Piazza San Marco will be the place, when there are also in the sunny day few centimetres of water.
If you are tempted to jump into water barefoot and celebrate this phenomenon, I don´t recommend it to you. The water in the lagoon is not a crystal – clear and hygienic, from the unspoiled waterfall in the forest. It is a mix of water that partly touches industry in nearby factories, also many times secondary wastewater, out of buildings and homes in Venice. You don´t want to touch gutter water in your city, you don´t want to touch also water in Venice.
FAI Giornate Autunno
If you search for some attends to catch, there is my favourite event of FAI giornate autunno – FAI autumn days. FAI is the non-profit organization, that protects and manages historical or old buildings, parks, monuments, interiors. It is like a time capsule, or a particular moment stopped in time. In Venice, there are several spots under the protection of FAI. One of them is FAI Negozio Olivetti at Piazza San Marco and another is Casa Bortoli – at Canal Grande, right opposite to Salute.
FAI Negozio Olivetti
Negozio Olivetti is a historical store of „Olivetti“ – famous for their legendary typewriters. Its interior was designed and overlooked in „production“ and engineering by Venetian architect Carlo Scarpa. For architecture fans and admirers of the 20th-century architecture of Italy, this is a name to know.
Negozio Olivetti can be visited by everyone in their opening hours, no special booking required. You can arrive there, be guided by one of FAI volunteers and to learn truly interesting matters about Olivetti and Carlo Scarpa as well. FAI is working on donations, so you are welcomed to leave a donation- small or big so that they can continue opening more precious spots and maintaining the existing ones. Personally, I liked all the spots I had a chance to have visited around Italy, it is very precious to experience such an organization.
FAI Casa Bartoli
Another spot in Venice is Casa Bortoli, a beautiful noble palace on Canal Grande. However, this place is reserved only for visitors, that purchased a membership in FAI – that can be done online or in Negozio Olivetti at Piazza San Marco. More info about this spot is here:
Please note, all the spots I am mentioning are not currently run opened – due to health emergency in Italy. This situation can evolve in the future, so please keep informed about that.
FAI giornate autunno are usually taking place for 2 weekends in the 2nd half of October.
Venice Fashion Week
Another event or a series of events is Venice Fashion Week. In 2020, its edition was trying to celebrate craftsmanship and cultural heritage of Venice and its craftsmen. However, due to health – emergency, it was mainly happening online.
If one is interested in fashion and wants to know what is happening in this scene, this can be something to keep updated about in the future.
There would be normally some events that can be attended for the public, tours or visits in the ateliers. Though, it is always the best to have the entrance reserved, to be receiving their newsletter and observe their communication.
Pieces Of Venice at Emilio Cecchatto Boutique, Ponte Rialto
I had a chance to attend the presentation of Pieces Of Venice in historical boutique Emilio Cechcatto and you can read about it in my previous articles.
Martina Vidal X Michaela Gaiofatto, Hotel Danieli
Another event, I had a pleasure to attend was a presentation of new nightwear collection for ladies by Martina Vidal- producer of precious Burano – lace products and luxury linen accessories. The new collection was created in collaboration with a designer Michaela Gaiofatto. If you want to explore it, have a look at the website of Martina Vidal https://www.martinavidal.com/.
Itis promising to see, that established brands or producers are connected with new talents and creating s“out of the box“ and can share their creations with the world. How else can be people interested in local production, if it is not presented and accessible?
If you are curious about Venice Fashion Week, here is the website to stay updated.
The start of November belongs to remembering the dead ones- On 1st and 2nd of November, it is an All Saints day and All Souls day. It is also a public holiday, so the public services are not running in 100 % scale and schools are closed. It is to remember all the saints from the Christian calendar and to think about the people, that are not among us any more. It is more of the private than opulent „celebration“.
Is there a Halloween tradition in Venice?
Recent years, there is an increasing trend of brought „Halloween“, so decorated cafes and shops in Venice are normal to see. Children would be also dressed as little monsters and witches, more and more getting used to „trick- or- treat“ street runs. Locally in different "campi“, neighbourhoods or streets can happen little gatherings of parents and „bambini“, having fun asking for this in Italian „dolcetto o scherzetto“.
While many people are against „importing the abroad tradition“, I would just remind, that autumn is the naturally moody and mysterious time when we tend to remember dead people. All our traditions have been generally a mix of peasant, Christian, Jewish or local geographical traditions, that are eventually evolving and getting new forms.
Nations have always been influencing each other, and even Venice is a huge sign of it ( bringing the cultural influences from East, importing goods, architecture, thoughts). If there is always respect towards each other and traditions let in peace in respect, there should be nothing too wrong about that.
I believe, that one can easily slip also to autumn melancholia. Sometimes, the break of October and November goes incredibly slow. Streets are filled with rain, fog and „greyness“ all day long.
I kind of support explosion of orange, yellow colours, decorations and fun for children, while becoming "a little monster". For adults, I believe this can be time to make the homes cozy, maybe a bit decorated with „autumn“ plants, warm colours, maybe some candles or warm lights. It is to beat the darkness, remember those that we don´t have in lives any more.
Maybe returning to some crafts, good books and music, that we like. I think that being „festive“ by illustrating the particular time of the year brings a bit of colour to our lives, kicks the dullness of autumn and help us to accept the time is running, and we can only enjoy the days we have.
11 Nov - Festa di San Martino (Saint Martin´s Day)
The day commemorating Saint Martin – or Martin of Tours, who was born in Pannonia in the 4th century. Saint Martin was of Christian faith and served as cavalier ( knight – soldier). He decided to leave military service and established a monastery in French town Ligugé. There was a saying, that when he still served in the military, he cut his cloak and gave it to the beggar, to protect him from cold. Whether this happened, or not, the story about his goodwill and the act of leaving the military service created a myth of his „spiritual chivalry“. Ever since, he has been depicted in paintings or sculptures as a cavalier on a white horse, with his legendary cloak.
What helped to his „fame“ was also, that his shrine was on display in French city of Tours on a road to Santiago di Compostela – a popular „path of faith“. He was generally a powerful „brand“ in the French church and was known as a French saint. Later on, his acts and name were brought up again in Franco- Prussian wars at the start of the 19th century. His cult was revived especially by French nationalists and that is a time when he became a patron- saint of France. Saint Martin is known also as a patron of winemakers.
It was important and powerful for cities or states to „have their“ saint. In case of Venice, it was originally Saint Theodore, patron of Venice, later one more „contemporary“ saint was needed – therefore Saint Mark was selected as a saint- patron of Venice in after the 9th century.
That was a part of history. Now, what is happening in Venice on this day?
To the careful eye, it will be clear that sometimes on the walls of Venice, you can see a depiction in bas- relief of Saint Martin. On this day, children are sometimes dressed in a little cape and with small crowns or swords, running around and being gifted sweet treats.
Traditional food of San Martino in Venice
Some week before San Martino, gingerbreads in the shape of an armed knight, decorated with chocolate or colourful sugar icing is available in bakeries around Venice, or even in supermarkets.
Another „San Martino“ dish would be a baked goose with a garnish. It was a typical autumn-winter dish, but also more „special“ one. As this period of the year is also strongly connected to winemaking, as „celebration“ is also connected tasting nice wine accompanied by chestnuts.
Again, on this day, you might catch the occasion of eating a goose in some of the more traditional Venetian osterias, the best if reserved in advance, since it is not usually in the menu around the year.
November was also the end of the „productive year“ in the matter of vegetables or shepherding. In this time, people would usually finish some pieces of the kettle, that would maybe not survive a winter.
On this occasion, as a dot after the year, the goose would be eaten, also as a symbol of the end of summer, source of good nourishment and good luck. In Venice, it is not celebrated too widely, though what I observe is, that during „pandemic“ we kind of had time to think about these old traditions. I believe we will enjoy some kind of these rituals from the past. It makes us think about simple and hard life, our ancestors had to manage to live in.
21 Nov - Festa Della Salute
Another more „spiritual“ event, though very important for Venice is „Festa della Salute“. Salute is a shortened version of the name of basilica „Santa Maria Della Salute“. Venetians simply cal lit „Salute“ – and it is also referring to the legend, that Saint Mary saved Venice from the plague.
As a symbol of gratitude and remembering the devastating plague in Venice and Veneto, they build for her this dome on the bank of Canal Grande. The plague miraculously finished in the year 1631, after Venetians stayed 3 days and 3 nights in prayers when also Doge promised to Saint Mary erecting the church devoted to her if she stops the plague.
Its opulent baroque shape is an unmissable symbol of Venice, and it belongs to one of the most photographed elements of Venice´s exteriors.
Usually (if there is not a health- emergency and gathering restrictions), there is a wooden bridge, connecting sides of Canal Grande, arriving at Salute. Everyone can do a symbolic pilgrimage of gratitude.
This year, of course, it had to be organized differently, without the votive bridge.
On the day of „Festa Della Salute which is on the 21st of November, there are holy messes in this church. This year, connected to the health – emergency, these masses were held in the churches all around Venice. Wise step. Normally, you would be able to arrive at Salute and to purchase a wax candle and to enlighten it in Salute, this year, we could buy candles and donate them in the church for the people in need.
In 2020, reminding ourselves how health is important and probably more important than anything, gave this historical celebration another element. I don´t consider myself too spiritual, but attending this event, giving thanks for a bit of health and remembering, that people survived even the worst matters in history, gave me hope. I believe, attending the event with fellow- locals has a powerful meaning, makes one humble and considering his thoughts.
Traditional food of Festa Della Salute
On the day of Salute, it is a tradition to eat „castradina“ – smoked mutton stew with savoy cabbage. It is nothing of noble food, yet it is very special and rather symbolic. It is said, that this particular food was one of those, that were eaten right after the plague, when there was a need of natural resources, the land and fruit, vegetables were destroyed ( as there was nobody to take care of it. This food „saved“ and nourished weakened Venetians and people of Veneto, so it is eaten to remember it.
Around this day, you can eat it in some of traditional Venetian osterias or restaurants, also you can order it to have it „tranquillo“ in your home.
Can you hear it? Sounds of Venice in the autumn
When there is a good time outside – not pouring rain like in Forest Gump when he was in Vietnam, and you can walk nicely around Venice, you will hear a particular sound of its autumn. Reconstruction works! This is the part when I feel like in amusement park. Normally, palaces, squares and streets of Venice are without movement- just birds and water are creating its dynamics. In the autumn, it is a perfect time, when Venetians are reconstructing their shops, or enterprises rebuilding palaces and building more hotels ( I hope they will be pretty...)
Naturally, it is time, when streets are not stuck with tourists so that workers can do their job undisturbed. You will see people bringing loads of their goods at a slow pace, painters doing some retouches. It is a chance to see a bit of „behind the scenes“ of Venice.
For me, it is still a miracle, to see such old walls and houses, still standing, while we are changing trends and pace of life. Sometimes, I ask myself, what would these walls or palaces tell us, if they could speak.
I hope you had a pleasant time reading this article and it created a bit of curiosity about this part of the year in Venice.
Will it be possible to travel to Venice in 2021?
If you are a possible traveller from abroad or even behind the seas, I cannot really answer the question, whether 2021 will be already a year of „free travelling “ as it was before.
In fact, I think things will not be as before, but need to be changed and updated. We often forget that we have a gift of freedom of travel, freedom of choice.
Yet, we are in time, when we can choose what we do responsibly. Me, writing these articles, I want to give everyone as many info as I can, so that they can choose if this is the place to visit.
Is Venice dying?
Venice is a particular place, with inhabitants that in some part feel their city is dying. I don´t take it that dark. It is definitely a place, that is not running „normal“ as a city and enjoyed much brighter days in the past. But that was more than a half-century ago! I believe Venice needs to as well find its new hope, its new direction, power of collaboration and setting their goal, possibly a new source of "salt" and energy for the future.
I love looking back to history, comparing it to presence. But I find in history a source of answers on the questions of the presence, and the source of inspiration, how some problems can be overdone.
Therefore, I believe, travellers are a genuine part of Venice. I quote everyone, who visits this place filled with practical information, has a „normal“ expectations and tries to respect the city, its inhabitants, customs and environment.
We can learn a lot from this place, and also, we can give something back to this place. The choice is ours. I aim to see it living, enjoyable for both citizens and travellers. The only thing I can do is not to fight against its „dying“ but to do everything to support it „living“.
I will finish the autumn article with the quote of Ernest Hemingway, who also travelled to Venice.
Hoping for a new day for Venice and Venetians
“Every day is a new day. It is better to be lucky. But I would rather be exact. Then when luck comes you are ready.”
― Ernest Hemingway, The Old Man and the Sea
Maybe, we don´t know when people can travel to Venice, but meanwhile, you can use your time, be inspired, dig in books, choose your favourite corners to visit, and when the time comes, you will fully enjoy it.
On the other side, it can be time for Venetians and their businesses to enter a new chapter of the highest quality of services and being a true representant of Venice´s values.
I wish both sides all the best.
Text and photos by Karolinska Structures Of Venice
2020
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