Empire style of Josephine de Beauharnais
A journey back into the past viewing the empire ellegance of Josephine de Beauharnais, trendsetter, while being a wife of a tyrant.
Apart from the story of Napoleon and his disastrous acts in Venice, we shall mention also his 1st wife – Josephine.
If you like watching historical films or series, you might have seen her depicted by Isabella Rosellini in miniseries Napoleon. Here I would talk more about the style and phenomenon of „empire“ era, that surrounded Josephine.
True elegance for me is the manifestation of an independent mind.
Isabella Rossellini
Empire style was the style of the architecture, interior design and as well as clothing and might have touched as well the landscape design. It reflected the ruling and ideals of Napoleon Bonaparte.
Jean-Léon Gérôme: Napoleon in front of Sphinx
Public Domain
Empire style was not „out of the blue“. During the 18th century, cities such as Herculaneum or Pompei were found. The 18th century in Europe were times shaken by revolutions, but also by stronger mixing of social levels of society. A new layer of wealthy and powerful people was erasing – according to who knew who or who was ruling.
18th century is important for the ancient revival. People, with finding antique ruins re-found the interest in ancient history. It started their imagination, often romanticized imagination on how the past was. They started to re-find ancient stories, myths, ideas, forms of architecture and decor.
View of the so-called Temple of Concord with the Temple of Saturn, on the right the Arch of Septimius Severus; by Giovanni Battista Piranesi; 1760–1778; etching; size of the entire sheet: 53.8 x 79.2 cm; Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York City)
Who would afford it, had a palace or home rebuilt in a neoclassicism style. It had elements of Roman, Greek palaces or ruins. Painters were busy with depicting ancient heroes, Greek gods or remembering personalities of Roman history. The architecture wanted to look like Greek temples or Roman baths. In this time, people still did not have enough historical evidence, so the imagination of the past was based on the fragments, that they saw. For a long time, they would think, that Architecture in Ancient Greece was pure and white ( which was later shown as not right).
Neoclassicism brought back interest in Ancient literature authors, poets. Simply lifestyle, that would bring people closer to this phenomenon.
Empire style evolved thanks to this previous influence. Napoleon Bonaparte himself was responsible for bringing ancient findings and artefacts to the private hands or European antique markets. Who knows, how many precious pieces from Egypt, Rome or Greece fled without a track all around the world during this boom.
Charles Percier : Design of a room, 1812
Google Art Project, Public domain
Napoleon used the style of „empire“ to create the idea of the perfect ambience. He had not only palaces, houses, but also the whole streets and cities (such as Paris) rebuilt.
Empire style fitted well into interiors of neoclassicism and enriched them for another „empire“ elements“. Popular in the interior were decorations inspired by Ancient Roman frescos, gold decorations and heavy red and gold textiles used in the interior.
Furniture was also heavily inspired by ancient influences. Chairs would be decorated with sphinxes, legs of animals such as lion or mystical creatures.
Empire dressing was a very significant time in the history of dressing. The whole concept of „covering“ of the body was almost erased. Until the empire era, it was utterly rude to show skin around the neck or even bare hands. Not saying bout necessity of the hat!
As our late professor Sykorova of the Material Culture used to say " Until the 2nd world war if a woman did not wear a hat in public, she was considered a prostitute!" We had to smile, but she was quite right.
Antonio Canova : The Three Graces 1813- 1816 The State Hermitage Museum
Dresses of women were inspired by ancient flowing statues, their purity, almost as if coming from mystical lands or heaven.
Men's dressing stayed more „current“, using the elements of military dressing.
The true trendsetter of this style was Josephine – born on Creaolian islands. She was known for her taste in dressing, in combination with well-selected jewels. She would often choose a dress that would make her shine like a star. There would be moments when she wore an almost transparent dress with sparkles. As disagreement, Napoleon would tear the dress down from her. Or, pour on her a glass of wine(he liked wine, but it would pretty much ruin the dress). She seems to have tackled with such a situation and continued standing on his side.
Since Napoleon managed to take away numerous art pieces from Venice, among them were also jewels from the private and Venice´s property. Some of these jewels were said to have finished as jewels for Josephine. But who knows for sure?
Another interesting connection is a perfume that you can find in Venice today. It is about "Rosa Moceniga" fragrance by Venetian brand The Merchant of Venice. The story behind this fragrance is interesting.
Jacques Louis David: The Coronation of Napoleon
This scene depicts the moment, when Josephine kneels on knees on the step down from Napoleon with the crown in hands.
Josephine was known for being beautiful, and also knowing how to use her beauty, how to appear as great and powerful as possible.
Her story does not lead to being part of Napoleon's life forever.
He desperately wanted to set a new dynasty of his. Josephine was not providing an heir, so he chose a future wife from the established dynasty. It was much younger Austrian duchess Marie Louise, and he married her in Vienna in 1810. The new heir was born, so Napoleon´s vision of long-lasting dynasty was in the view.
Far was he from the events, that would continue.
Going back to a style of Josephine. The empire style of dressing was used a lot. During Napoleon´s reign or a tyrant reign, if you like, there was a new layer of society „Nouves Riches“. Not only nobility or people with family heritage were any more able to afford luxurious clothing or living. Around Napoleon, his supporters were given a political or financial influence. In Paris, even general poverty after the French Revolution and its aftermath, Paris experienced a boom of newly established restaurants, glamorous balls and extravagant parties.
Josephine was always carefully watched by the people around and her custom made dresses would become an ideal of the dressing for the other women.
I am placing her a few of her paintings. Naturally, paintings are not photographs, as every painter could decide on how to present a person. I would see in detail her dresses, so we can perhaps compare it to the dresses, that are worn today at a state´s figures or representatives.
Baron François Gérard: Joséphine in coronation costume 1807 - 1807
Google Arts Project, Public Domain
Josephine is captured during the important event of her coronation.
She is wearing an ivory dress with elaborated patterned probably embroidery with golden threads. Lining with golden stripes, make the dress more festive and gracious. The hem is finished with golden frills and other lines of decorative embroidery perfectly representing empire style. Natural elements, leaves, elements are taken from the ancient architecture.
The waistline is as high as possible, up under the breast. This line makes the figure appear longer. Small puffed sleeves in a shiny material, probably silk, which would be today done probably also in a synthetic material. Interestingly, she is not wearing any gloves.
An important part of this „outfit“ is a cape. The colour of red- Bordeaux in velvet, heavy gold embroidery with empire decors.
The cape has a white and black lining and hem from the ermine fur. Every black spot is a piece of ermine tail, and it serves to demonstrate how many ermines the coat had to be produced. Maybe thing not to consider, but something that can be used in movie or theatre, the cape had to be really heavy.
This type of cape is a distinctive sign of ruler, being often used during the coronation, also in England or around Europe.
Not forgetting on the jewels, Josephine is wearing.
We´ve got here beautiful headpiece, diamond necklace and bracelet in pair possibly diamond and pearl type.
The hairstyle is not too visible, though the hair appears. A classic exposure of empire style hairdressing – curles and all pinned up, sowing few soft curly lines of hair, framing the face, parting in the middle. This very hairstyle could be often seen in Ancient statues or artworks. This type of look was very significant for Josephine.
François Gérard : Joséphine at Malmaison in 1801
Josephine is depicted here by the French painter Gerard, almost „casually“ and relaxed but still stylized in her home in Chateau de Malmaison. I suppose this is not a dress of the receptions or official events, rather informal day dress. Even behind her, there is a darker scenery, I believe this effect was used to make her appear in this painting as the main motif.
I would suppose, that for the evening dress, she would probably wear a dress with more elaborated decor, probably including gold or some sort of Bordeaux part. The hair would be neater and work would be more „diamonds“ including jewels, as well probably pair of the bracelet.
The dress appears to be consisting of at least 2 layers, one less transparent white, probably silk and over transparent what might be a fine muslin in a cold white tone. Mind the perfectly fitting comfortable silk slippers, that would not be worn for the exterior, most possibly, however for movement around Chateaux and for being portraited work great. It is interesting to see actually any piece of shoes, which would not be used if it was a more official or representative portrait. Here it creates a fine finishing of this „ancient“ looking silhouette.
The waistline is, as it should be in the exemplary empire dress right under a breast, fitted under the breast and flowing freely down. Interesting is the detail of the sleeve, light folding and then finishing in a diamond(ish) decoration with a light line of another stone, pearls or embroidery. The sleeve is not an extravagant creation, but it increases the „statue - style“ of the whole simple yet powerful dress.
What about the „effect“ this empire dress is creating? Does not it look like a soft veil flowing in the air, or a figure lightly covered in the transparent veil? Such a motif was also favourite and often used in a sculpture. We have a beautiful example by Antonio Canova and many other artists. You can see one Veiled Head also in Ca´Rezzonico in Venice.
Jewels, that Josephine wears here are supposedly „simple“ daily version of her gear. Tiara, referring to her position, with the centrepiece in form of a diamond. No necklace, but a ring and pearl earrings with 2 lines of pearl bracelet.
Hairstyle with curls, but more freely falling to head is very characteristic for the style of Josephine. In this case, it is not absolutely lean on the head, which is probably referring to this casual and still elegant depiction.
Josephine is seated here in comfortable velvet sofa with empire- style decor, exotic rugs probably imported from parts of Asia. Behind, a fragment of column referring to neoclassicism and an atmospheric view of the garden. On the right side of Josephine, a bouquet of flowers, what might have been the flowers referring to Josephine's famous garden in Malmaison. It serves here to soften the whole image of Josephine.
Andrea Appiani : Portrait of Joséphine later in life 1808
All right, this painting was probably created for the pure joy of creation and depiction of Josephine, more in a lifestyle mood than a representative portrait to be sent to oppressed countries.
I am not too sure, but it might be, that the artist depicted her younger than she was. The dress is rather romanticized version, most probably. A dress is something to wear for a portrait session to set a trend or something to wear if you are organizing an empire style party in your chateaux.
The dress has an empire waistline, with decors with lines of pearl and gold and colourful cameos. The tiara on her head might probably make her look closer to Ancient Greece or Rome. This dress looks like when someone wants to make himself look like a Goddess or a mythological figure. The hair is nicely covering the backside of the neck, this styling would be perfectly fitting if you are creating an Ancient or Neoclassicisic film, set in Villas and warm ambience.
I believe this kind of styling has more symbolic meaning, than realistic. Maybe Josephine wanted to be forever remembered as a Goddess or follower of the Ancient rulers?
The shawl is strongly taking us back to times of Roman togas, that were reserved for Roman nobility.
If this dress had to be reconstructed, rather matte materials might be used. For the white dress, falling ivory gauze and for the shown matte silk or fine cotton.
Antoine-Jean Gro: Joséphine de Beauharnais vers 1809 Château de la Malmaison 1809
Public domain.
This painting is not my favourite, but it kind of represents the „old era“ before the empire style was fully developed and used in dressing by Josephine.
The cut of the upper part of the bodice is developed in a way that it reminds a bit dresses of women from the previous era – before 1800. Neckline opening is lined with golden trim, giving the dress more formal, or serious look. Also, the sleeve is longer, than it would be usual for the classic empire dress.
This kind of styling could be used for the evening time, or also for some official event. The red shawl is adding an „empire“ touch to the dress, covering the backside of her neck. An interesting small detail of the sleeve, but since it is the only one, it may refer to Ancient Rome or Greece style of pinning the piece of fabric.
Under breast, 3 profiles of some kind of Roman probably emperors, referring to Ancient rulers of the Apennine peninsula.
Jewels are used here soberly, I believe the main importance have 3 profiles of the Roman heads. Only 2 line of pearl necklace is enough here.
Painter, or maybe Josephine knew how to work with accessories, using it dramatically and using the power of symbols and storytelling.
Hair is led in an „empire“ wy pinned up, neatly into a bun with soft curls framing the head. This trick might make the face appear longer. I know it, sometimes I use this trick too, with a similar combination of hair up! Practical and neat, especially when running into the library or around galleries in misty Venetian weather.
See that here, Josephine is wearing a rouge and cheek blush.
This portrait, in the background in the darkening ambience of ancient ruins, would be a piece of artwork to be sent to various oppressed cities and states, to have it copied by a local artist. Rulers often hired their private painters for a commission of an official portrait. If approved by the ruler, it would then be sent where needed, where it should have been copied and distributed. Rulers wanted to master their official image, to overlook the actions of their officers and generals in the areas influenced by the emperor.
It is interesting to view these paintings from the matter and the elegance of Josephine. It can also be a good example of working with the public image.
Jupiter, Mercury, Philemon, and Baucis Andrea Appiani
Dorothem , Public Domain
Nowadays, presidents, heads of businesses have the opportunity to work with their image. If used consciously, it can send a message.
As an example, I will use 2 very extreme case. The British Queen Elisabeth the 2nd, used her dresses and outfits cleverly as a states-woman of her range should. Not opulent, but always demonstrating who she is, and who she wants to be. If she visited countries away from Britain, the outfit and accessories had to speak for themselves. She rarely talked to the media, so this was a language, she used to reach the public.
The general audience probably did not have to „read“ the whole symbolics, that she used in the colour of the outfit, or type of jewels worn. However, if used in a long- term, people might just see here as a person, who does respect locals, that she visits, and honours them by careful selection of her dress. Since the Queen always knows – or her team, where she will appear and how she will be possibly photographed, she could also use the power of „scenography“ and to create a contrast from her „background“ and space, that is around her.
Another extreme and my favourite example is Lady Gaga. Apart from using extravagant costumes and styling, as well as makeup and extreme accessories, she is also using „casual“ clothes to match her goals.
If she is currently publishing the album such as „Joanne“, her outfit to appear and being photographed „by accident“ by paparazzi will be in exact agreement with the mood of the album and its visual era.
If she is promoting film premiere of „Star is Born“ during Venice Film Festival, she would wear a dress recalling outfits of Hollywood movie stars from the 30s, which was the exact exercise of the most glamorous outfits ever worn in the modern era. By these steps, the audience will accept her in a new role, or a role she wants to be accepted.
Empire wall hanging 1805 - 1815. Possibly made by Bissardon and Bony Cie
French Lyon Silk satin with chenille thread embroidery and painted silk velvet appliqué
MET Public Domain
The statesmen, stateswomen or public persons have another job, apart what is their real job. The language of the dressing and appearance is an incredibly huge part of the perception of their person.
My other lovely professor of Costume and Costume History, also a great artist and friend Manuela Bronze told us during the lessons of ESMAE in Porto:
„You are a complete artist. It is about what you do, what you see, how you talk. About what you talk and how you look. „
Prof. Manuela Bronze
I would paraphrase her also in the theme of dressing and elegance.
We don´t always need expensive and made to measure clothes, such as Josephine had at her disposal. We probably don´t need luxurious jewels or strong makeup. It is about knowing who we are, enjoying being healthy, probably optimistic and strong in ourselves.
We can work with the visual image, that people get from us. By conscious overlook on who we are, and what we want to be, we can create our own original personality. It should start inside of us, and just after that, expanding it with clothes or modification.
Simply said, even the asshole in the expensive suit is still an asshole. And a beautiful woman, even just dressed in pyjama and her favourite fragrance can be the most beautiful woman in the world. Or, as modern Parisian women would do - selecting few quality timeless pieces and knowing how to combine for various situations.
I will leave you here with these thoughts. I hope you have learned something interesting and got inspired by the elegance of Empress Josephine. I also believe that you smiled in some parts of the text.
Joseph- Antoine Romagnési: Relief in plaster : Minerva Protecting Young King of Rome
MET Public domain
Text: Karolinska 2021
Image of Isabella Rossellini in "Napoleon" miniseries: https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0253839/
Paintings and artworks: WikiArts Public Domain, Google Arts Public Domain
The author of this text does not posess the copyright of these artworks, they are under Public Domain Licence, unless stated differently.
Quote: Isabella Rossellini, https://www.brainyquote.com/authors/isabella-rossellini-quotes
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