#structuresofvenice of summer 2020
What were we doing in the summer and what is there to see in Venice?
Summer in Venice is usually more than hot and humid. However, it is always a good idea to plan your stay and to know what you are dealing with.
Venetians head to beaches nearby Venetian centre or escape to Veneto´s mountains.
This was the situation as well in the past when Venetians were fleeting away from the hot centre and nestled in Palladian villas around river Brenta. There was a busy connection with Canal Grande, continuing into canals of the river and worked almost like a highway.
Let´s have a look, what summer Venice of 2020 offered. This is a selection of my photos and posts that have appeared in Structures Of Venice´s Instagram feed. I am happy to share them with you.
Pronti?
Arriving to Venice on a fresh morning
I will start with the image of Canal Grande in the location of Train Station Santa Lucia and Piazzale Roma. For many visitors, this is one of the first views of Venice.
How to arrive in Venice?
There are few options, and all of them are much more convenient than is thought generally. It is true, that in Venice, there are no cars, of course.
You can arrive by car and to park at car parking upon a fee - right at Piazzale Roma, or at Mestre. From Piazzale Roma, you can or start walking around Venice ( prepare good comfy shoes and get ready for numerous bridges and stairs to cross). Or, if you are arriving with bulks of luggage, easy. Hop on Vaporetto ( water ferry ) and get yourself to the Vaporetto stop that is the nearest to your accommodation, or wished spot.
It is really easy to navigate yourself in the Vaporetto system. I recommend stopping first at Venezia Unica Ticket Box or Info Centre at Piazzale Roma. Get a map there, get info about Vaporetto ticket options. You can buy 1 ride tickets to multiple day passes, or day passes in combo with museums and gallery visits.
Check their website, if you would like to know more exactly.
You can arrive in Venice on a train. The stop to hop off is Venezia Santa Lucia. If you booked a hotel in Mestre, check your closest train stop. There is as well a Vaporetto stop right in front of Train Station Venezia Santa Lucia, so you can start getting to your accommodation from there or start walking.
On the other side of Venetian Lagoon, you can arrive from the side of Croatia/ Slovenia/ Austria by car and comfortably find yourself at Punta Sabbioni or little cities nearby. This can be also the option of your stay. Then, you can get yourself to Venetian islands such as Lido, Murano, Burano, Venetian centre by Vaporetto starting at Punta Sabbioni.
This part, stretching around Punta Sabbioni to Bibione is famous for its long beaches, endless hotels and campings. It is the most popular stop for travellers with families. Tons of water attractions and truly "Italian" nightlife with laud discos, mini golfs and gelatos can be found there. From these points, you can hop on the bus that is pretty frequent and ride to Punta Sabbioni. From there, again, using the Vaporetto system is an easy way to visit Venice.
Mind, as I already wrote, Venetian summer is extremely hot so it is a good idea to have a fresh place to relax.
Summer is probably not the best time to visit the most famous attractions. It is rather a time to relax and to visit truly less known places or islands and nearby cities. Nobody wants to suffer while spending a holiday in Venice, do they?
Piazzetta in the sunset hours
A part of Piazza San Marco, that is between Palazzo Ducale - Doge´s Palace and Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana, on a way to Riva Degli Schiavoni.
In the summer, this is a tourist hotspot. If you are grand, you can head here early in the morning, or later afternoon/evening, to enjoy it in a more calm atmosphere. I don´t know like you, but I don´t like to stand shoulder on the shoulder and to take a picture of 1000 of heads or selfie sticks.
Piazza is magnificent and has tons of details to observe. This is why I love to be there almost alone, not in the crowd.
At this location, it is possible to enter to Basilica di San Marco - Saint Marks´Basilica - the most famous building of Venice with the unbelievable gold mosaic interior. Visit of Palazzo Ducale or Biblioteca Marciana, Museo Correr or Archeologic Museum is possible. BUT. In the summer, tourists from all over the world are (normally) heading here. And even in the midst of the pandemy, there were still lines. Save the visit to museums and galleries for your next winter visit.
Close to Piazza, you can find a piece of shadow and greenery in renovated Royal Gardens. There is not the entrance fee, you can just walk in and sit on benches ( very rare in the centre of Venice) so remember this spot.
In the photo you can see the corner of Palazzo Ducale, only walking close to it and observing its storytelling columns is a treat. If you are lucky to find a good tour guide, you can learn plenty of interesting facts about this place. On more right, there is a column of Saint Mark, which was "recycled" from the ancient sculpture of a creature called a chimaera. Today it is a proud symbol of Venice and one of the epic spots to observe. Another small detail of the photo is a seagull.
Please, enjoy seeing them from distance. It is forbidden to feed them, and actually, be careful with your food, they like to steal sandwiches right from the hands of the visitors. Piazza San Marco is a hotspot not only for tourists! :)
This very place is close to Vaporetto stop called San Zaccharia and few seconds walking you will see also another famous spot - Bridge of Sights. While it is nice to take a picture of it ( as everyone does), you can enter it if you are visiting Palazzo Ducale. But that is another story. Now you only know that if you MUST visit these spots, you will find them easily.
Faaaaaar away from crowds
People call it Off The Beaten Path. If you want to escape summer crowds of filled centre around Piazza, Rialto and Accademia, the natural choice will be heading to Cannareggio.
You can reach it from our mentioned Piazzale Roma / Station Santa Lucia by walking or getting Vaporetto to the stop Guglie ( closeness to Ponte Del Guglie.
You will appear in a neighbourhood that was formerly strictly Jewish, as it was designated area where they could have lived or provided businesses. You can enter to Ghetto through small hall entrance and can truly imagine, how closed and protected it was.
Cannareggio is not filled with famous spots. It is quite filled with residents and a calm atmosphere. At night, its Fondamenta Misericordia ( called Misericordia) is filled with young people that enjoy evening aperitivo or dining together. You will find here spectacular, weird, typical Venetian, modern places where to explore Venice´s food and drink culture. Whether you are a Spritz fan or wine lover, you will find here places to enjoy.
This photo is showing blooming greenery towards church Madonna Dell Orto. It is rarely visited, so I recommend it as a nice stop escaping from the sun and inhaling art and architecture.
Cannareggio is filled with legends and mysteries, so, again, if you like to read, do some research about these places or hire a passionate tour guide, that will introduce you to its stories.
Venetians have a sweet tongue
I am sure of one thing. If you like sweet treats, you will not leave Venice disappointed. Venetians love "dolci" - sweets and eat plenty of them ( which makes me ask how they keep their good shapes !!! ) You can encounter numerous "pasticerias" and "cafes" offering lovely sweets.
My advice? Go for them! Having a coffee is a time to relax, stop, get some sugar to blood. It is normal, for us to order "un caffe, per favore" and accompany it with one of these beauties. You can ask for a glass of water, as well. I always try to remember the names of different dolci, but... I always fail so I try to remember their shape or colour. Or, simply trying out and experimenting, it is a way how to find out the truth :)
This summer Venice experienced strict security and hygiene measures. I was worried that my favourite dolce stops will not be operating. What welcomed us were always friendly staff covered with their masks and using gloves. So, enjoying la dolce vita and safety is okay and works!
If you like to write down places where to eat, write down this one.
Pasticceria Dal Mas.
You will find it walking from Stazione Santa Lucia direction to Strada Nuova.
! In many cafes, expect to be standing only, having a coffee "al banco" - at the bar. If you find a place where you can sit, the price may be higher, and these places are in Venice quite rare.
The truth is, in Venice, you will get a lot of walking and standing. It can be strange at the beginning, but this is why we need to compensate with plenty of water and good things.
And yes. At the end of the day, legs up and ice, often!
Welcome to the jungle
This is a sneak peek to one of the private gardens of Venice or rather fancy entrance to a private house. It is rare to see greenery in Venice, but you will NEED it in summer. Careful, greenery in Venice is rare.
As I already mentioned, you can chill in Giardini Reali close to Riva Degli Schiavoni. ou can take Vaporetto or walk to Giardini Biennale and have a seat at the bench. You can go jogging in the morning to park of Saint´Helena. I love the location of Saint´ Helena, but only secretly. Why?
Because it was the idea of Napoleon Bonaparte, who annexed Venice and then simply gifted it to Austro- Hungaria at the beginning of the 19th century. Venetians never forgot. He had some grand ideas, that I love, and then some ideas, that I don´t love. Such as. Loads of Venetian art and jewels were taken away to Paris and all around Europe. And it never got back. Well, history has many sides.
Some of the private gardens are today parts of the hotels or private palaces. You have a few choices: or you will find some friends, who own these palaces ( eeeh, not a too high percentage of chance, or you will use my pieces of advice noted up).
If you are an absolute fan of gardens and you MUST see them, I advise you to hire a good local tour guide, who has a key ( and contacts) to the secret gardens.
Green place of Venice is also island Lido, and that is quite easy to explore. It is charming, reserve for it some good time.
Gondola, gondola?
For many people around the world, trying a gondola ride in Venice is on a bucket list. And I absolutely understand that!
It is great to be enchanted by Venetian canals and to see it as Venetians did for a centuries before - from the water.
Remember, the gondola is not a roller coaster. You can find spots in Venice close to famous monuments, where people wait in LINE to spend 30 mins on the gondola. Passing by other tourists, seeing tourists and another gondola. But how about to have Venice and it canals for yourself?
Head deeper to Venice, explore, get lost and find a gondolier that would seem friendly to you. Ask about his trace, time and price option. Even price is fixed in Venice during the day 30 mins = 90 € for max 6 persons, it is vital to have it always double-checked and not to take it for granted.
Gondolier´s job is not to sing, nor to tell you anything, It depends on them if they feel like telling you what is around, or on your communication with him. Being a gondolier is an ancient craft and they are proud of it. It is not also an easy job. Usually, gondoliers happen to be gondoliers, because their fathers were gondoliers. So basically you train to manipulate with these beautiful slim boats since your perhaps teenagehood and it is your family business.
It may seem to be quite a price for such a short time. But standing on a boat all day in hot or cold, humidity or rain is not a destination job. With every wave of tourism crisis, they can feel it immediately. So yes, maybe some gondoliers do wear Prada sneakers and eat lunch in the expensive restaurants, but some, at the end of their day, have to provide home and stability for their family.
If you only want to get a touch with gondola experience, search for a "traghetto" stops, which will transfer from one corner to the other of Canal Grande for a few coins. You will be standing and probably with other people, but it can be a low-cost option.
If you fell for being on the water in Venice, get a rowing class! It is extremely engaging to try rowing one of the traditional boats in Venetian canals and to learn it from passionate people. You can find a few organizations providing this experience for tourists and locals.
Research rowing in Venice or rowing experience in Venice and you can choose what fits you.
Loading - Scuola Grande San Giovanni Evangelista
Scuola, so it has to be a school, right? Not at all!
Venetian scuole served in the past as a charity and support organization, funded by Republica La Serenissima and private donations.
Unfortunate people could have turned to them to provide help with finding work, housing, or any other support. Today some scuolas serve as museums or event spaces, or a combination of it.
I had a pleasure to visit Scuola Grande San Giovanni, that I often passed around while walking. It has a very unique entrance doors outside. If you walk in, you can be surprised by the size of the space. The ground floor is VERY ground, its floor is set few centimetres lower than the ground outside. This refers to its very history. This Scuola, as other Venetian buildings were hit by violent and extreme Acqua Alta on November 2019.
Until today, there are some reconstruction works running. Not only because of the water but also because of the movement of the building and material, current reconstruction was much needed.
Process of the repairs was stopped, indeed by the epidemy and now slowly continues. There is as well activity and a plan to create an immersive experience, that would show its visitors how it looked and worked in the past. You can visit the website of Scuola and support them by donation, which will be used to create these new immersive works of design.
Not to forget to mention, the current part of the restoration, importantly of the Monumental Staircase from the century is restored thanks to Venetian Heritage and its partner The Gritti Palace. Thanks to generous care, historical sites will remain protected for the presence and as well for the future.
You can read about their acitivites here:
https://www.venetianheritage.org/
Venetian Heritage Inc. is a group of like-minded individuals who come together to safeguard Venice’s cultural patrimony through the preservation of the former Republic’s legacy of art, architecture, literature and music and through the promotion and exhibition of Venice’s rich contributions to the arts.
From the website of Venetian Heritage
I believe it is time to transforms also historical places to visitors friendly spots. We are much more used to the high quality of demonstration of information. It is nothing more precious than to study history in the original location.
The importance of the Scuola in the city having increased over the fifteenth century, partly due to the donation of the relic of the Holy Cross in 1369 by Philippe de Mezières, grand chancellor of the kingdom of Cyprus, it decided to buy not only the rooms rented from the Badoer family but also the hospice and renovated these (1414 – 1420) to create premises more in keeping with its greater needs.
From the website of Scuola Grande San Giovanni Evangelista
Even Scuola Grande San Giovanni is not too famous and in the list of "what to see in Venice", it is a nice stop and it can take you to Venetian public interiors. It is beautiful and full of Venetian details and precious works of art. You can be sure that here no crowds will be expecting you.
We are always happy to show the building of the Scuola Grande San Giovanni to our visitors.
Many are surprised when they discover that this is the original place of a famous cycle of paintings on the miracles connected with the relic of the Holy Cross of the Scuola Grande. The eight canvases provide an extensive view of Venice in the 15th and 16th century and are painted by famous Venetian artists like Bellini, Carpaccio and Mansueti.
Today you can admire original paintings at the Gallerie dell´Accademia (room 20), while we have an interesting virtual tour to show you where they use to be in the origin.
The Relic of the Holy Cross that inspired this famous cycle still belongs to the Scuola Grande, and you can admire it by yourself during the visit to the Scuola.
It is amazing how the whole building and decorations were designed and produced to demonstrate the power of this Relic. All those vast spaces and paintings filled with important public persons of Venetian history pointing to the Relic and to the Scuola Grande. These paintings are real instant pictures of the real life in Venice, and beside being historical documents, they seem to be a great marketing operation!
Jelena Ivanisevic, ufficio tecnico,
Scuola Grande San Giovanni Evangelista
Good news is, that after pandemy times, also guided visits are restarting ! Scuola is planning every weekend starting in October guided visits of the Scuola and restoration works in progress. Do not miss it!
You can hear more about ist history and artifacts here: https://www.scuolasangiovanni.it/en/history-scuola-grande-san-giovanni-evangelista/
If you are interested in keeping this special spot well kept and protected, visit the website below, learn more about crowdfunding campaign of Scuola Grande San Giovanni.
The goal is now to reach 5000 € before the end of this year.
Also you can support by donation directly here:
In a good company
I have had a pleasure to have fun during our photoshoot for my friends Your Local In Venice. Their names are Giada and Loris. They are not only funny and smart! Their passion for Venice, its food and wine will take you to the quality of this culture. With them, I always learn nice news things about wines, perfect food combinations and how to enjoy it.
Even Veneto is based in Northern Italy, its wines do not have to be ashamed! Of course, you must have heard about more famous Southern Italian wines such as Montepulciano, Chianti, Sangiovese. But I warn you: once you will discover Veneto´s Soave, Bardolino, Amarone, Valpolicella or Prosecco, you will belong to the club.
Venetians loved to take their "ombra" - a glass of red wine in the shadow of Campanile and to gather in a short break or at the end of the work time before heading home. Today, you will experience bars with Venetians and their dogs in crowds, sipping red wine or prosecco even at 10 am! Then, later in the afternoon, aperitivo time is widespread. It is an occasion to finish your day, to chat with people living around. To leave your doubts outside and to come home fresh. And some elder gentleman told me a secret. It is to warm their belly before dinner, to accompany their drink with little finger foods, while chatting with their buddies, giving space to their wives to chat as well.
So, if you are looking for an engaging time in Venice, make sure to contact Your Local In Venice. With Giada and Loris, you can learn fun facts about not only wine but also the culture surrounding it. They have a picky nose, so they will bring you only to the best and most authentic spots.
You can choose from numerous tour options or contact them with your inquiry and they will create a custom made bulk for you. What I like about their activity, is that they are young, professional and devoted to what they do. It is time to recreate Venice, to offer the best services than better. If we want to see this place living, we need more people like Giada and Loris.
Contact Giada and Loris and prepare yourself for a Venetian yumminess! https://www.facebook.com/yourlocalinvenice/
We have created this and many other photos at a great La Bottiglia. Delicious wines and delicious panini. I will mention them because it is not only a lovely spot to drink and eat, but also they are KIND and modern people. Spreading good vibes and highlighting quality here.
Lido, Lido, Lido!
More than 10 km of beach, birds singing, Liberty-style villas and pomp hotels. Every year´s Film Festival in the air. Presence of relaxing, inspiration and true holiday atmosphere. This and more can be found on Venetian Lido. It is super easy to reach it from Venetian centre, as well from Piazzale Roma or San Zaccharia stop. If you have a swimming suit ready, make it your afternoon stop.
We like to reach its public beaches, that are a bit further from the Lido´s centre. But all is easily accessible with a bus.
I have visited beautiful luxury hotel Ausonia Hungaria ***** to collect photos of #structuresofvenice and to explore it as well from inside. I was literally charmed. You can see more photos in my PHOTOGALLERY on this website, mentioned about it in my Instagram feed https://www.instagram.com/structuresofvenice/and you can read my big article about this incredible place in the section of the BLOG.
You will find there as well maps to easily understand where is it and how was it in 1907, in the year of the opening of the hotel.
The hotel came through a huge reconstruction, but it preserved its quality and historical Liberty style beauty. Added high style of modern furniture, pleasant outdoor pool and luxurious Thai spa. Do you need to know more? You need to visit it and enjoy your Venetian holiday there!
Visit Ausonia Hungaria´s website and plan your stay.
Wow! You made it till the end. Hope you have enjoyed in my summer #structuresofvenice.
Let´s move on to the next chapters! Stay tuned on this website or follow what is happening through IG https://www.instagram.com/structuresofvenice/
Would you like to head to these places? Easy! See the map I created for you.
Click HERE to view the points highlighted in the map via Google Maps, so you can get there easily, when in Venice!
By clicking below, you can download Venice holiday map in PDF format versio.
Easy to print or to open in your phone, when you need.
Make sure to share with your friends, that are in love with Venice and its special places.
Texts, photos, graphic material by Karolinska 2020
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